'We stick mainly to the tried-and-true, starting with Braised Duck with Beancurd (S$18) - fanned out slices of tender breast meat covering a layer of crinkly-skinned wobbly beancurd, bathed in its distinctive long-simmered gravy with a slight herbal influence. It's a decent rendition of the classic dish, perked up with the chilli vinegar dip. But it's even better if you order a bowl of rice porridge just for the simple joy of tongue-scalding plain gruel with lashings of gravy.'